Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Iyi Bayramlar!
     This morning I woke up and drank a cup of coffee, perhaps the most beautiful cup of coffee I have ever had. I ate a breakfast in which everything tasted delectable. I looked outside at the beautiful flowers and trees, the sunshine, and everything seemed more beautiful than I previously remembered. I am truly blessed to have been a part of Ramadan, to have fasted, and participated in such a deep tradition.
     When I began this project at the beginning of the summer, my purpose was to explore Turkish music and how it influenced Mozart's writings. I began by researching the music theory, the forms, different singers, and music from different areas while attempting to learn the Turkish language. As the summer progressed, I quickly realized that an understanding of Turkish music required much more than a mere understanding of the theory or even the Turkish language. Turkish music is deeply embedded in the culture itself. Every day immersing myself in the culture, learning about the people, experience all aspects of Turkish live I was able, my understanding of the music grew exponentially.
     Perhaps one of the most significant pieces of the Mozart's Turkish puzzle lies in the understanding that Mozart himself was influenced by the culture as well as the music. This can be seen through his characters that reflect the stereotype of Turkish people at the time: big personalities, unruly, a bit narcissistic, and often those who get involved in multiple relationships. Turkish characters were used in his operas when the character needed a disguise-one that often involved the seduction of women. One example is the two men in Cosi fan Tutte. Sultan Ahmet palace was the corner stone for Die Entfuhrung aus dem Serail, an opera devoted to showing the difference between characters of the English world-calm, somewhat arrogant and rude, niave-and the Turkish world-barbaric, and seductive. Because the Turkish characters in the operas all had an element of seduction to them, it can be assumed that Mozart himself felt seduced by the Turkish people, their lifestyle, and their culture. Because these characters are used to teach other characters a lesson, it can be assumed that Mozart was creating the same juxtaposition that he is famous for between the minority and the hierarchy-minority teaching the hierarchy a lesson (he was often in trouble for this by the way and this is one of the reasons his operas were not all that famous while he was living-don't bite the hand that feeds you is appropriate here).
      On a very brief musical scale, Mozart uses significantly more melismatic passages and chromatic notes in the music of these characters. Looking at this from a Turkish standpoint, a lot of the Turkish music can be assumed to be chromatic by the Western ear. Turkish music is also infinitely famous for its use of ornamentations and melismas regardless of the genre. Mozart was not able to completely recreate the Turkish sound only because Western instruments are unable to be tuned to the specific needs to produce Makam and the komas so prominent in Turkish music.
     Experiencing any culture, especially through immersion into that culture, gives one an understanding of not only that culture but also oneself. It has been nothing less than a pleasure to experience Turkey in the many ways I have been able. This project is no where near completed which is very exciting. I look forward to returning to Turkey again in pursuit of more understanding of the culture and music and its influence on Mozart's writings.
     To those who have been following my blog, I thank you so very much for your time and for sharing this adventure with me. Tomorrow I return home to the United States to finish my final year of Masters-therefore little attention will be given to Turkish language and music. I hope that this blog has been enlightening and informative while at the same time doing justice to this beautiful, rich culture. As the Turkish people say when they will see one another again, gorusuruz.

Friday, August 26, 2011

26 August 2011

Merhaba on this cok guzel gun (beautiful day)!
     Today is a very important day during Ramadan. According to Muslim, today is the day that God took Muhammad up the seven levels to speak with him. Muhammad is Muslim's only prophet to have spoken with God personally. This evening, we will go near the Hagi Sofiya to eat dinner, and I will have the chance to experience Iftar outside watching all the people at the restaurants wait until Ezan to drink that first glass of water and open their oruc (break their fast). Today, more than any other day in Ramadan, oruc is significant for all Muslims whether they have been fasting the entire month or not.
     Oruc entails much more than just fasting the 16 hours however. Oruc is an overall cleansing and fasting.  No alcohol, no smoking, no sex, and, of course, no food and water until Iftar. As it was beautiful said to me, "God does not need you to be hungry or thirsty." The purpose of Oruc is much, much deeper.
     Ramadan is a long standing tradition in Muslim religion that originally fell on the ninth calendar month of the year. It is said that during this time, Muhammad received the Qu'ran from God. It is in the Qu'ran that Muhammad charges all Muslims to fast. Later, Ramadan served not only a religious purpose, but also to help preserve food from harvests that were brought during this period in preparation for winter.
     Locals say that in the past eight years, more and more Muslism are not participating in Ramadan because of the burden that the conservative government places on the people to participate. The government controls television commercials, most of which are Ramadan themed, to the price of bread, especially Pide, the special Ramadan bread and these are only two examples of the many things that the government owns and uses as propaganda for Ramadan.
     The government also works to provide for those who may not be able to participate in Ramadan. Huge food areas are set up for Iftar and Sahur giving away free meals that include the traditional Corba (soup), main meal with meat, and come complete with dessert in many cases.

     While we are waiting for Sahur in the morning, we watch a government run program I wrote about previously in my blog. The program reads from the Qu'ran, discusses Iman (Muslim faith), and one can hear the morning's Ezan. Muslim has songs similar to hymns that are also sung during this time while accompanied by live, traditional, Turkish instruments. The reading of the Qu'ran is perhaps my favorite to listen to, however. Imams train for years memorizing the entire Qu'ran. Because the original Qu'ran is in Arabic, reading it entails something between chanting and singing the verses. It is very difficult form of singing, and often uses komas (those notes in between notes found in Turkish music).

This is a beautiful reading of the Qu'ran by a young boy in training to be an Imam

http://youtu.be/SVanIauqirw

A beautiful tradition, and an experience that I am very thankful I am having, Ramadan continues to hold knowledge and surprises not only in terms of understanding the Muslim religion, but also for me personally.


Fun fact for the day, Chevy Chase was in a commercial for the Turkish cola, Cola Turka:

Part 1:  http://youtu.be/5YsrKy2z2T8

Part 2:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUjuezFPyGE&feature=related

***The writings in this blog are based upon personal experience and research conducted about the country of Turkey and the Muslims therein.***

Saturday, August 20, 2011

20 August 2011

Hello to All!
     As my summer here in Turkey comes to a close, I find myself admiring all the things that I have come to love about this country-the daily Ezan, the wonderful people, the vigorous and vivacious energy, the exquisite food, and most of all, the deep, rich, beautiful culture that has engrossed all that I've come to love making it distinctly Turkish. 
     Fasting has been a very difficult experience, but one that I am very proud to have experienced. My stomach has grown used to eating at Iftar and Sahur, but that has not stopped daily hunger and thirst my body and mind has become accustom to for the past 25 years. But, with each sip of water at Iftar, I am more and more thankful that I am blessed to have the food and water I do to quench my thirst and fill my stomach. 
     My research of what music influenced Mozart has come to a stand-still as I need the resources available to me through my University and overall, in the United States. While attempting to research certain things here in Turkey, I find many websites are blocked by the Turkish government. In the same, the goverment has blocked access to certain US television stations online, and I am not allowed to purchase any books through my Barnes and Noble Nook. Yet another thing I am thankful for in the US.
      Back to work and enjoying my last few days here.....

Thursday, August 11, 2011

12 August 2011

Hello to all!
     I was able experience my first Turkish summer rain storm today. It was beautiful, although extremely hard and seemed to only poor harder when I tried to step outside to break my fast and go eat dinner. At the beginning of the summer, my poor Eee PC was having a very difficult time working correctly and as the summer went on, the little thing went completely kaput. I have been relying on other people's computers (and kindess) and my iPod to check email and write my blogs. In order to complete my German Project, I need to use Microsoft Power Point, and consequently, am learning not only to use a completely Turkish version of Microsoft Office but also learning how to type using a Turkish Keyboard



For a person who is used to typing 100+ words per minute, using this keyboard has taught me much more patience and also made me check my spelling very closely! I have considered replacing my old Eee PC with one from here in Turkey since I will have learned to type using this particular keyboard. The thought is still under consideration, however.
     Each night, after Sahur, when we break our fasting and eat the evening meal (usually around 7:20pm), we watch a special TV channel which features a show where experts speak about the Koran and matters of faith, Iman. The show has a timetable on the side that shows the time and will flash the cities that begin Sahur at that particular time. Sahur always begins with Ezan, and the first thing that we do is take that most beautiful drink of water. Most channels also feature commercials, Reklamler, that attempt to use Ramadan to sell their products. Before Iftar, when our fasting begins each morning (around 4:19), we watch the same channel that features the same conversations of Iman and Koran, and begins our fasting with Ezan when we drink one final glass of water. 

Picture of a Sahur Table

For Sahur we usually begin our meal with soup, Corba, which is easy on a stomach that has not had food for a significant amount of time. After Corba, dinner features some form of pasta, meat, and vegetables and bread. Our Iftar is a standard Turkish breakfest, Kahvalti, with olives, tomatos and cucumbers, cheese, some form of eggs (fried, boiled, etc), and bread. During Ramadan, there is a special bread, Pide, that is standard to eat during both Iftar and Sahur and both of our meals usually include Pide. 

Mosque in Istanbul during Ramadan

One more piece of information to mention. At the beginning of my project in Turkey, due to unfortunate sponsorship circumstances, I was forced to withdraw from the Language Institute as my funding did not come through. Others involved in my project, such as advisors, became very unhelpful and made it exceedingly difficult to continue with other portions of the project as well. These setbacks along with the untimely death of my laptop almost caused me to abandon the project; however, I was determined not to let the work I had done go to waste. Thus, I continued with my research on my accord and proceeded to teach myself Turkish. Yesterday, I took a Turkish language test through a language institute. The test consisted of beginning Turkish through advanced Turkish. I am very proud to say that I scored a 50% or a high intermediate level of Turkish comprehension. Thank you for all those who have been following the blog and have been sending your good thoughts and support! 


Wednesday, August 10, 2011

10 August 2011

Merhaba!
    Back in Istanbul and having a very "eye-opening" experience with Ramazan.
Fasting has been a somewhat difficult yet very good experience for me. It has
taught me to be very thankful for that moment when Ezan begins and I take that
first sip of water for the day. I have also learned to value food especially when
helping prepare it for the evening meal that closes fasting for the evening, Iftar.
The conversation that comes during Iftar is priceless as well as I am not the only
one of many sharing in these feelings of thankfulness. Throughout the day when
I find myself the hungriest or thirstiest, I say a prayer that often leads to just talking
to God expressing my worries and whatever else is on my heart. What a beautiful
way to bring one closer to God and make one realize the value of basic human
needs-food and water.
   

Sunday, July 31, 2011

July 31, 2011 part 2

Merhaba again!
      I forgot to mention in my last blog that tomorrow morning at 5 a.m. marks the beginning of Ramadan. A holy month of fasting, Muslims neither eat nor drink during the day time. For many, fasting is a reminder to be thankful for what God has given, especially those basics needs of human life-water and food. Muslims eat and drink, known as Iftar, twice during the evening and early morning, 8 a.m. after evening Ezan and 5 a.m. after morning Ezan. At the end of the month of fasting, Muslims celebrate Bairam where they join together with their families to eat, and be charitable with their neighbors through the sharing of food especially a special meat that is prepared during that time.
      I have decided to participate in the fasting of Ramadan and to use this time to draw closer to God myself-although I may partake in the "child's version" of Ramadan, where I can drink water at a specific time during the day.

July 31, 2011

Merhaba from Adana, Turkey!
What a beautiful city and an exciting time I was blessed to have in Antalya. Although it was sad to leave the city, and the beach (which I admit, I quite enjoyed), it was an exciting trip to Adana, and I know more exciting events will come! We took a bus from Antalya to Adana. Twelve hours most of which were driving through the mountains. There is no straight road from Antalya to Adana, but rather the bus lines follow the coast. The roads were slightly nerve-wrecking as they were made of packed dirt and many times there was nothing between the bus and the drop off into the sea. The sights were absolutely stunning, however watching the sun rise above the mountains and merely looking over to one side to see the beautiful sea. The further we traveled into Adana, the more we traveled into a more "classical" Turkish mentality. Adana, though the city seems metropolitan, has an Eastern Turkish mentality. There are many more women wearing head coverings although not as many radical muslims. 
     The city itself is something of a wonder in terms of landscape. On one side, the sea and on the other, mountains. Therefore, the weather is incredibly humid because the humidity, or nem in Turkish, rises from the sea and travels to the mountain only to be stopped by a "wall" that is much cooler. This makes the soil and landscape very valuable as it is exceptional for farming. 
     I have noticed, especially within the last week, that my Turkish has taken an interesting turn. In Germany, I went through a period where I could neither speak nor hear German as well as I could before I I came to the country. It was incredibly frustrating.  About three days ago, I realized that I was understanding conversations and television programming even when I was not actively trying. Although my vocabulary is still limited and I may not be able to answer, I can understand about 80% of what is going on. This is a significant amount considering I have not studied the language except upon arrival to the country. I must admit, knowing how the verbs work, conjugation and otherwise, has made the situation much easier and the entire educational process much easier. Although there is still far to go, good progress is always an exciting! 
     More exciting information to come!


Merhaba from Adana, Turkey!